Our night at Spina Folegandros: solar-powered stone suites above Ambeli Bay, sunset drinks at the Osteria, an empty dawn swim and a chef-made breakfast.

A bumpy dirt track, a cliffside osteria and one of the best meals we've had in years. Spina is the Italian-run hideaway at the far end of Folegandros, where a chef with Michelin-starred experience cooks a daily-changing €70 tasting menu over fire, with vegetables from the garden and fish from local boats.